Jil Sander SS22 Women’s Collection
Tension is an energy. We are reopening our eyes and can enjoy the bliss of a new awakening.
To see clearly, we need the lights and sounds around us to be soft, to feel comfortable and to carefully use the power and sensitivity that we have in us.
Far from perfect, we can always look forward, with as little filter as possible. We are plural, nocturnal, and luminous; feminine, masculine, vulnerable and strong; and we shouldn’t take ourselves too seriously. We are in motion. This is the statement Lucie and Luke Meier repeatedly make in their Jil Sander collections, every season with a different perceptive variation. Eclectic in their world is both a vision and a value.
Subtle and powerful. Silhouettes and volumes look strong yet feel light. Generous, they change from garment to garment, from look to look, in a skilful balance of fabrics, treatments and details. Smocking, cording, padding, coating – cotton drills are gessoed or glazed with nappa: everything is textural, showing creative invention and artisanal handcraft.
Strong-shouldered jackets and coats, square and masculine, are worn over smooth, long trousers that softly anchor the silhouette. Pale peach, light green, cream, white cotton drill or leather pants are worn under double face Italian wool jackets and shirts with luscious foulard collars. A bouclé green suit is both smartly tailored and hyper-modern. Delicately draped tops are worn over strong, shaped trousers.
Colours, mostly pastels and dark, are key, along with prints and knitwear. A tiger pattern, straightforward in an iconic velvet coat, the enlarged hand-painted stripes, and the paisleys, enriched by sequins in a gown, are a clear invitation to be light-hearted and to play.
Cotton and chenille are crocheted together in different, contrasting vivid colours giving a padded, spongy look to rectangular long dresses. The natural Italian and Japanese fabrics, and the way they are treated, are exquisite : velvet moiré, silk, paper and viscose, double-faced cotton, double-faced wool ; they give shape to garments that can be freely combined.
Shoes, décolletés, and boots, black and white, some enriched with broaches, are sharp. The new Cannolo Bag, cylindrical in white, deep burgundy, caramel, and black, has a broad, buckled adjustable strap. Minimal round golden discs, earrings and necklaces with inlaid mosaic plaques, and smooth metal compression bracelets and earrings lined with leather add geometric focal points to every look.