Jeremy Scott NYFW FW18
If a humanoid alien dropped to Earth today and needed to be at school in an hour, I imagine they would look just like this collection. In a blatant act of rebellion towards fall/winter grays and jewel tones, Jeremy Scott’s FW18 collection, like many others this season, has decided pastels and neon are for winter. And why not? They look pleasing against a dreary snowy day.
The neon bob wigs caused a storm of social media twittering and, I’m guessing, a flurry of salon appointments, if only to obtain the shocking red orange color that we’ve seen at Alexander Wang. Some have said the wigs are informed by The Fifth Element, but they could just as easily come from a psychedelic interpretation of Amélie or—dare I say it—a Dora the Explorer and Care Bears mash up? I’d pay to produce it. After all, a bear design makes its way onto Scott’s pullover sweatshirts.
Gigi Hadid opened the show with a pair of space age overalls, cut off mid-thigh and looping low beneath a pink crop top (watch out for pink, it is having its moment.) What follows is a parade of pop culture references, a rapport between play and elements of bondage wear, as well as a particularly interesting take on the wildly popular puffy coat wherein bubbles seemed to pop forth from the jackets that housed them. Puffy indeed.
From this place of childlike wonder where black straps attach to bear sweaters like a backpack on a child eager to make it to school, Scott moves the collection to a rave, where tall and thick boots rule beneath booty shorts. The velour track suit has a moment and ending on more accessible ready-to-wear that still seems to come from a place of joy and the early 2000s attitude towards the outer space lifestyle. Metallic jackets with classic tailoring, appliqué puffs on sweaters, and skirts with hoops orbiting like Saturn’s rings retain their classic wearability.
Scott’s FW18 is undeniably fun, edgy, and the antithesis of the winter doldrums. It’s on brand with Scott’s work, the kind of fashion we attach to his name. Seeing his runway choices manifest in on-street and in-store trends is something of a guarantee and this is the pleasure in a collection that veers away from the straightforward. To that, I raise my glass and don my neon bob.
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With love,
FWO
