Christopher Ræburn SS18, London Fashion Week: Men’s
REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED, RÆBURN
Christopher Ræburn’s SS18 collection is a functional fluorescent mashup. Bold coral is spliced into grey through contrasting panels of jersey and repurposed material from kites.
The story behind Ræburn’s collection is sustainability, working with EXKITE to rework used kites into anoraks and macs to truly put the fluid movement into the drape of the silhouette. The lightness of the fabric carries the wind in the long-line coast as the models glide past.
Psychedelic Jers
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The story behind Ræburn’s collection is sustainability
Greys, whites, and the bold statement orange are interconnected to create dramatic two pieces, or layered to create a look that can survive the desert heat. See-through organza is used to create tunics and bucket hats and is even tailored into outerwear pieces. Camo prints are revealed underneath the bright coral and are used to create streetwear staples such as jerseys, shorts, and bomber jackets.
This collection is inspired by The Long Walk by Slavomir Rawicz; a tail of journey and survival tracing from Serbia to India. The elements of the desert aren’t restricted; it’s almost a preparation kit to survive the blistering sun. Along with this theme, a desert mouse — a jerboa — is printed onto tops to create an endearing travel companion.
This collection is inspired by The Long Walk by Slavomir Rawicz
Ræburn’s collection also brings a message from the desert. REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED, RÆBURN.
The four ideas are physically printed onto the collection through trims hanging as utility embellishments. As well as repurposing pre-flown kites, he sources organic cotton for his jersey, and has collaborated with footwear brand Palladium to create shoes made from recycled rubber. This collection hints as a warning against a desert-like future for wasteful consumers. The only thing that survives is Ræburn’s fluro desert rat.
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Christopher Ræburn
EXKITE
Palladium
With love,
FWO
Three Easy Pieces: London Fashion Week: Men’s
Three Brands to Watch from London Fashion Week: Men’s
On the first day of London Fashion Week: Men’s, there was a lot to take in, but here are three of the many brands that stood out.
For more information, see the British Fashion Council site, or check out the schedule for all the men’s fashion weeks.
Meng Menswear
Meng, a textile authority, has exploded into spring 2017 with a collection of bold prints, marrying traditional Asian imagery with modern geometrics.
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Focusing on loungewear — which lends itself nicely to silk — the prints are applied to pyjamas, robes, t-shirts, and scarves. Relaxed silhouettes are used as a canvas to highlight the intricate work of the many fine artists and graphic designers behind the various patterns. A slight sag in the breast pockets of the t-shirts showed the careful consideration put into looking effortless.
Relaxed silhouettes are used as a canvas to highlight intricate work
The original hand-drawn designs include exotic birds, flowers in stages of bloom, checks, and polka dots. Plain t-shirts in bright teal, burnt orange, and regal purple are used to offset the plethora of prints, making the separates interchangeable.
Using the softest of fabrics — silk twill, silk satin, silk jacquard, silk stretch, and fine cotton — adds to the luxury. Weightless and delicate, these clothes are designed to make the wearer feel royal. Meng is branching into the menswear world with beautifully romantic pieces. Learn more.
Meng is branching into the menswear world with beautifully romantic pieces.
Leon Bara
Leon Bara SS18 collection is a modernised military uniform with futuristic features. The sound-bite to take away from this collection is that it’s functional. Everything from the fabric choices to the back straps sewn into the jackets make this an eminently wearable collection.
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You can see the mid-20th century links in the muted colour palette and the highly functional fabrics. Alcantara is used as a suede alternative. Soft to the touch, it lends itself to tailoring and, incredibly, is machine washable. Two-piece sets are created in modified cotton to become 100% water repellent, designed for the European weather.
The silhouettes in the collection are boxy and tailored. Tracksuits are engineered to become formal with shirts treated as classic staples.
“Our tailored items are sporty and our sporty items are tailored,” says Hugo Edwards when discussing the unique qualities of the collection in the Show Studios space.
Our tailored items are sporty and our sporty items are tailored
Pale blues and vermilion are used as bold contrasts to a mainly monochromatic collection. The strict colour restriction is echoed in the concise nature of the entire SS2018 range. Sharp seams, square shapes, and crisp fabrics are used to define the modern uniform. Lean more.
Gravalot
Gravalot’s motto is “Don’t Change, Transform.” From the contemporary African menswear label, this is evident in their use of traditional styles and colours adapted with modern streetwear silhouettes and technical fabrics.
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The SS17 collection is split in two: traditional tunics and short two-pieces in striking colours; and modern streetwear separates in black, white, and grey. The modern take on African clothing is designed for casual to formal dress, whereas the latter half in designed as Gravalot’s take on streetwear.
The modern take on African clothing is designed for casual to formal dress
The three-year-old brand has been finding its feet within the menswear market and has designed this capsule collection with runs of 100. The inspiration behind the collection has come from Dubai, Morocco, South African, and Nigeria.
Designed from cotton and linen, the summer collection makes a statement through its use of colour. Crisp white linen, bright gold, matte black, and royal purple and blue in sets of tunics and trousers create a traditional uniform for a hot city summer. Learn more.
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With love,
FWO
Boredwatch: Recycling Trends at Hyperspeed
When Everything New is Old … Again
Fashion and its trends are best understood as a circle, traveling round and round, forever arriving in the same places, but in different forms. Fashion is cyclical. Your mother has likely said it in reference to something from decades past that she gleefully pulled from her closet.
It’s not a revolutionary thought; it’s well known to the point of being hackneyed.
So why bother discussing it? In light of the recent media recycling in the past couple of years, I couldn’t help but see the same sort of reusing in our clothing. There’s comfort in what we know, comfort in something that’s a sure buy (which is really, really comforting for those trying to sell you things). But although the idea of recycling trends may seem “green” at first, in fact it becomes rather tiresome, and ultimately wastes more than it saves.
This became clear when I saw an ad for the movie of the ’90s series Baywatch, which to me was so bafflingly similar to the hundreds of other revamps: the live-action versions of Disney classics, the dozens of superhero films, and even the mystifying rework of the charming world of Archie comics (which broke my heart when I realized the gravity of the series). It’s a cyclical world, not in inspiration, but in simple redressing.
It’s a cyclical world, not in inspiration, but in simple redressing
In the past, trends have resurfaced in new ways, and I’d be incorrect and remiss to say they aren’t ever new now. Designers are as innovative as ever. The difference, as I see it in my youthful naïveté, is the longevity of such things.
I can think of a number of trends that blew up in the last couple of years that are already on their way out for the next, new thing. Typical trends last about five years and some schools of thought say fashion cycles about every 20 years. This, of course, isn’t quite correct in the “modern” age of fashion. “Fast fashion,” social media, and a widespread cultural nostalgia are the factors I would attribute to changing the lifespan of trends.
After all, the public sees a show live — or in posts — moments after it takes place. Celebrities may be able to snatch the genuine designer article, but fast fashion companies make variations at lightning speed for the public’s consumption. The next thing rolls out, in repeat, except at speeds that compromise quality and forward motion.
speeds compromise quality and forward motion
And the availability of high fashion styles can be a good thing; in any case it’s fairer to the fashion-loving consumer, though an abundance of choices isn’t in itself a good thing. For all of the options, many products come out looking very similar or exactly the same as the original and, for the entire keyworded popularity of social media, many of us end up looking like variations of the same thing too.
many of us end up looking like variations of the same thing
To be trendy or not to be, that is the perennial question.
Of course, the universal disclaimer in fashion is to do whatever you please, but in making such choices, the knowledge of what’s leading you to abandon the choker might lead you to a long-lasting and far more original answer.
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Summer Style Tips for Men: Pre-Men’s Fashion Week Report
Pre-Men’s Fashion Week Report
The four big men’s fashion weeks are right around the corner. That – and the ever-longer days — mean summer is practically here.
While most women will watch the trends — and imitate what they see on the runways — most men have to go back to some form of “the classics” to achieve both elegance and rawness at the same time. Having to wear the same kinds of clothes every time really makes it harder for men to stand out from every other man in the crowd.
Getting the Manly Stance for Summer
“To achieve the nonchalance, which is absolutely necessary for a man, one article, at least, must not match,” wrote Hardy Amies, author of several books on men’s style. Other than skin care (something like LifeCell Anti Aging Cream) look sharp and well put together — without looking too made up — by following these top tips:
1. Build your confidence. Unlike women, most men are confined to a finite set of the same old shirts, tees, pants and, occasionally, shorts. What divides the men from the boys is confidence. You have to learn to trust yourself first. Look inside you to determine who you are and who you want to become. That’s what you portray. That will help you determine your choice of clothes: whether your wardrobe needs a more athletic, outgoing, boy-next-door look, or a prestige look.
2. Let your lifestyle determine what you should wear. If you spend most of your time on Wall Street, then you need to be in well-tailored suit. When choosing your top looks for a summer outing, you need to relax, but stay clean cut and sharp. On the other hand, if you are a fitness trainer or athlete by profession, you need more casual outfits, but you don’t always have to be in your jogging pants.
3. Dress for the occasion. Don’t stop there. Take it up a notch. Remember what Amies said about “one article at least” not matching? Make up your mind what that article is going to be, but please don’t wear a Mickey Mouse printed necktie to a friend’s wedding. (Unless they’re raving Disney fans, of course.)
4. Get a haircut. A great haircut is one of the simplest ways to knock out every summer look. Whether your style is rugged or clean cut, make sure that your haircut matches your personality. In any case, make sure that your hair is well groomed. It should be clean and smell nice, and as for your scalp — it’s important that it’s free from dandruff. Having flakes there is one of the worst ways you to spoil your flair. If you’ve got some hair loss (no big deal, in our book) you can try some natural shampoos to prevent hair loss or even try to regrow hair naturally (one such service is hairlossrevolution.com), with a plethora of solutions available in the marketplace. But don’t let hair loss bog you down; see rule #1. Confidence and happiness are king!
don’t let hair loss bog you down; see rule #1
5. Know how to accessorize. Believe it or not, accessories aren’t just made for women. Choosing the right men’s accessories will help you get a more complete wardrobe. The best advice: always buy and use authentic men’s accessories. Women can get away with inexpensive accessories but, men, in general, cannot. Invest in basic pieces. That will include a genuine leather wallet, an expensive automatic timepiece, a pair of high quality sunglasses, and a leather traveling bag for those weekends out in the resort. Your best accessory, eventually, will be the car that you drive.
6. Be selective with your soles. Shoes deserve very special attention. You have to know when to use comfortable shoes and when to ramp up your styling. Generally, when you are wearing leather shoes, ensure they’re genuine. When expanding your shoe collection, prioritize quality and versatility so that you’re ready for any occasion with comfort and style.
For your athletic gear, make sure you have the right pair to go with the kind of activity that you’ll be doing. Also, learn about summer-friendly footwear. Instead of flip-flops or sandals, for example, try espadrilles.
Instead of sandals, try espadrilles
7. Take better care of your skin and your body. Improving your physique and your posture are great ways to man up your style. Knowing the proper way to shave and learning about sunscreen are the two best places to start improving your skin health. Remember this: your skin and your body are your best accessories.
See you at men’s fashion week!
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Lisiana Carter is a renowned independent researcher and is studying the impact of technology in the beauty industry. She is passionate about beauty, makeup, fashion and skincare industry. She holds a PhD in beauty and thereby has been consistently sharing her experience by writing various articles related to makeup, beauty, fashion, and skin care. She has been writing on beauty and skin care related topics from the past 10 years. You can follow her at the beauty insiders.
Celebrating the New ALEXACHUNG Collection in London
Alexa Chung Celebrates the Launch of Her Eponymous Fashion House with Friends
We still think Ringo is just a smidge cooler than George — if you remove the Pattie Boyd-driven Hindu element, anyway — but anything with a non-John or -Paul Beatle is likely to get an automatic thumbs up from us.
Alexa Chung clearly knows her market, as she showed once again last night at the debut of her new ALEXACHUNG Collection, which was both runwayed and fêted at London’s Aviary Bar.
Although the guest list reads like a who’s who of hip London society, the real standout was the collection, which was surprisingly good.
The Collection
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The show was live streamed via www.alexachung.com, and the event was joined by some of her closest friends: Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe, Amber Anderson, Natasha Lyonne, Henry Holland, Jack Guinness, and Tallulah Harlech.
The focus was clearly on wearability, with a collection of looks that were chic, cheeky, and fun. Thrift-store cool with a rock edge — à la Bill Gaytten or Saint Laurent — was presented side-by-side prep school chic that recalled Band of Outsiders. As if that wasn’t enough, a little Joan Jett-inflected punk, Studio 54 disco, and 1980s shoulder pads were thrown in for good measure.
Joan Jett-inflected punk, Studio 54 disco, and 1980s shoulder pads
A collection like this can risk becoming incohesive, but a sense of playful, tongue-in-cheek sass tied it all together. The “Screw You” t-shirt in funky, early-’70s letters, and the “I Love U, I Hate U” tee were standouts in the smoking-in-the-girl’s-room category. But there was some very lovely knitwear as well, such as the stripy mohair jumper (very smartly styled with a leather skirt), and mixed crochet top a la Hervé Léger.
Finally, the ALEXACHUNG Hooded Floral Dress was a real standout for us.
Alexa Chung shows that her strong sense of style can indeed translate into a full collection. But more importantly, she seems to be able to design clothes that people would actually love to wear. The fits were sharp, silhouettes on point, and the energy and sense of fun palpable.
She seems to be able to design clothes people would actually love to wear
If this is what Alexa Chung is up to, we can hardly wait to see more.
Everybody Alexa Chung Tonight
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With love,
FWO
Name of the Rose: Vogue’s 125th Anniversary Collection with Karl Lagerfeld
Vogue’s 125th Anniversary Collection with Karl Lagerfeld
Photos by Chris Lavish
Leave it to Vogue to celebrate their 125th anniversary by creating their own rose.
To celebrate such a huge milestone, Anna Wintour tapped creative genius Karl Lagerfeld to collaborate on a limited edition collection. The 10-piece collection is available exclusively at Lord and Taylor’s Dress Shop.
Coming Up Roses
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To further help fête the anniversary — and promote the collection — a private launch party was held Wednesday at Lord and Taylor’s flagship on 5th Avenue in NYC. As drinks and floral-embellished sweets were passed around, guests snapped pictures at the photo booths and were able to shop the collection (and get a tattoo!).
Each summery dress ranges from $148 to $198; a price suitable for anyone. The feminine and ultra-chic dresses can easily be styled with sneakers and a leather biker jacket … or strappy heels and pearls for a more polished, cocktail attire look.
Each summery dress ranges from $148 to $198
The off-the-shoulder floral navy and red rose printed dress is ultra-flattering for every figure, perfect for Sunday brunch or a rooftop date night.
The lineup was overall very youthful and perfect for summer. Karl Lagerfeld Paris x Vogue 125 Rose Collection was all about celebrating history with a keen eye to blasting into the future, each dress giving a nod to the romance of the magazine.
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Lord & Taylor
The Vogue 125th Anniversary Rose
With love,
FWO
Miami Swim Week: Erik Rosete of Art Hearts Fashion
Art Hearts Fashion Miami
Another producer behind Miami Swim Week is Erik Rosete of Art Hearts Fashion.
AHF produce a number of shows, from New York to LA, so Miami is a natural market. Their events are often in conjunction with partners like Funkshion or SWIMMIAMI, and are often capped off with a part at LIV.
But mainly, they’re known for producing world-class runway shows, with designers from Du Aqua to Rocky Gathercole.
We spoke with Art Hearts Fashion founder Erik Rosete to learn how AHF make a splash every July in Miami.
Q: How did AHF Miami come about, and when?
AHF Miami happened as a natural progression of our partnership with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. We had been given the coveted closing showcase for several seasons at New York Fashion Week and jumped on the opportunity to be the closing showcase of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Miami Swim.
As fate would have it, the same season we were to add Miami to our event cities, Mercedes-Benz pulled out of the U.S. fashion scene altogether. We were left without a venue, and with a few weeks left until Swim Week, we reached out to the remaining main organizers at Swim Week and partnered with Funkshion and SWIMMIAMI to have shows at multiple venues throughout South Beach.
Hale Bob at AHF Miami Last Season
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Q: What was Miami Swim Week like when you first started producing shows?
When we first joined Miami Swim Week, there was a lot of confusion as to how organized the shows would be with the absence of IMG/Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. We were a bit nervous going into our first season at Miami Swim Week working with new venues and production companies, but were well prepared to handle any situation. Our core team flew into Miami with years of experience producing fashion week in New York and Los Angeles. Taking that knowledge and implementing it into a new city was crucial to our success.
Our core team flew into Miami with years of experience
Q: What’s it like now, post-IMG? What are the challenges and what are the positives?
Miami Swim Week post-IMG has opened up the city to multiple event producers and great content to ensure that various venues throughout South Beach are being utilized to produce swim shows. IMG may have pulled out, but the world’s largest swimwear trade shows have only grown bigger, and are attracting more swimwear industry guests to Miami than ever before.
The main challenge we faced was the industry’s reaction to the loss of the largest producer of Swim Week. The challenge was met with strong leadership and resilience. Going into our third year at Swim Week we are comfortable with our partnerships and look forward to our biggest season yet.
We look forward to our biggest season yet
Q: What makes Miami Beach special as a place for swimwear collections?
Miami Beach hosts the worlds largest Swimwear trade show, and attracts the worlds most beautiful people to its beaches. The marriage between swimwear, industry, and beautiful people make for the perfect formula to create bikini fashion shows.
Q: What do you see for the future of Miami Swim Week? What’s the dream?
Miami Swim Week continues to provide a great landscape for the swimwear industry to showcase its latest collections. As the swimwear industry grows, so does the demand for Swim Week. Our dream for Swim Week is to expand our footprint and help tell the stories of our designers for years to come.
As the swimwear industry grows, so does the demand for Swim Week.
Q: What’s the BEST part of being involved in Miami Swim Week?
The best part of Miami Swim Week is the beach and the scenery. Our experience in Miami is always a great one because it contrasts with the crazy and chaotic environments at New York and Los Angeles Fashion Week. When we arrive to Miami to produce our shows, we always manage to catch some sun and enjoy the city filled with amazing weather and beautiful scenery.
Q: What can we expect to see this upcoming season?
We pride ourselves in celebrating the art of fashion, with this season being no exception to our mission of showcasing the world’s most creative designers. Guests will enjoy the Art Hearts Fashion experience by being exposed to international talent displaying their sexy resort/swim collections.
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Learn More
Miami Swim Week producers
artheartsfashion.com/miami
Miami Swim Week schedule
Register for Miami Swim Week
With love,
FWO
Style Fashion Week Appoints Former IMG Executive Producer as Global Fashion Consultant
Style Fashion Week Appoints Former IMG Executive Producer, Christina Neault
Style Fashion Week — global producer of fashion, music and art events has recently brought on Christina Neault as Global Fashion Consultant.
With more than 20 years of experience as a respected member of the industry, Neault is the the Fashion Programming Consultant for Pier59 Studios and produces many industry fashion shows in NY. Neault was formerly the Executive Producer of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Neault was formerly the Executive Producer of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
As the newly appointed Global Fashion Consultant, Neault will be a crucial part in Style Fashion Week’s international expansion.
Already a prominent figure on the New York Fashion Week schedule, Style Fashion Week is currently in several U.S. markets and moving into nearly 10 international markets over the next year.
Style Fashion Week is moving into nearly 10 international markets over the next year.
Working directly with international governments and designers, Style Fashion Week is taking fashion from different cultures all around the world to be experienced by new audiences in exciting new ways.
Along with a diverse range of designers presenting with Style this season, they are breaking barriers between music, art and fashion to create the ultimate creative entertainment experience. Taking the energy from concerts, festivals, fashion week, art installations and merging them into one experience is what makes Style Fashion Week an anticipated event this upcoming year.
Neault’s role within Style Fashion Week will encompass consulting on an overall production level and growing the brand through production, programming, as well as attracting established and emerging designers.
Style Fashion Week creates an experience around the runway while celebrating both high-profile and emerging designers, artists and musicians. Known for taking “fashion” to an exciting and innovative level, Neault’s involvement is highly-anticipated to further develop Style Fashion Week as pioneer in disrupting the fashion industry and creator of the next generation of global commerce.
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With love,
FWO
Miami Swim Week Producers: Tiffany Norman of DIVE Swim Week
DIVE into Summer this July
The stated mission of DIVE Swim Week is pretty simple: to discover and present beautiful fashion. The program was created by Tiffany Norman, a veteran fashion show producer with brands like Chanel, Adidas, Cartier, and Tahari under her belt.
After six seasons as venue manager for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (now known as NYFW: The Shows), Tiffany went off-circuit to MADE Fashion Week to focus on emerging designers. The success of MADE designers like Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Jeremy Scott, Public School, and other now-renowned beloved brands inspired her to create a similar platform for Miami Swim Week.
DIVE released a “Preview” in 2015 as and has since evolved into DIVE Swim Week, featuring “next-scene” swimwear designers (including CFDA Fashion Fund Nominee CHROMAT). The program and roster continues to expand with various formats around Miami Beach. DIVE’s quest for what’s new is matched with an enthusiasm for creativity and culture, fusing art and technology to present fashion interpretations with edge.
DIVE Swim Week
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Interview with Tiffany Norman
Q: How did DIVE come about, and when? And who’s behind it?
I’ve been in the production industry for some time, but working with MADE was what truly inspired me. I witnessed some of today’s top talents in their early stages, the process as they stove for recognition, and ultimately the validation of their strong work. I used this inspiration for my final project in grad school, applying it to swimwear. After doing all the analysis and research, I realized I didn’t want DIVE to be just an idea: I could actually make this a reality.
I didn’t want DIVE to be just an idea
Q: What was Miami Swim Week like when you first started producing shows?
New Yorker industry players loved coming to Miami for work, but mostly play — hence why the city earned its designation as the sixth borough. It was fun departure from the vibe from up North. It was still very corporate, but shows took place at night and were all about the flash. The economy was good and people were happy. Big production was king!
the city earned its designation as the sixth borough
Q: What’s it like now, post-IMG? What are the challenges and what are the positives?
Everything is much more reserved and the productions have scaled down a bit, which makes sense because fashion is a measure of the economy.
Also, social media is present in a way that it wasn’t in the IMG Swim era. It’s allowed more intimate and artistic moments, such as the Mara Hoffman presentation at Casa Casuarina a couple years ago.
The first year without IMG as an overarching program was definitely a challenge, as attendees struggled with navigating the various productions that picked up the Swim Week baton. The following season saw great improvement, however, and I’m even more optimistic for this summer. The positive in it all, is that it was a prime opportunity for budding programs such as DIVE to really seal their footprint in the Swim Week scene.
I’m even more optimistic for this summer
Q: What makes Miami Beach special as a place for swimwear collections?
Miami Beach is world-renowned. People can’t help but be captivated by the city’s personality. It’s a no-brainer to have it as the backdrop for SWIM.
Q: What do you see for the future of Miami Swim Week? What’s the dream?
I think we’re in a bit of a renaissance. Fashion is cyclical, but also improves in the process. More and more, we’re integrating other elements to make it a holistic experience. It’s no longer just about the runway over the pool — we as an industry are seeking out an infinite amount of ways we can showcase the talent of our designers.
My personal dream and mission is to integrate fashion with other creative formats. Hence, the DIVE platform is celebrating fashion with art, music and technology … it’s all compelling and inspiring!
the DIVE platform is celebrating fashion with art, music and technology
Q: What’s the BEST part of being involved in Miami Swim Week?
Right now, it’s being a part of the transformation. The possibilities are endless. And you can dare to be a bit braver because the Miami scene is open to pretty much anything.
Q: What can we expect to see this upcoming season?
Programmatically, I think we’ll continue to see new and unusual interpretations of “fashion shows.” Design-wise, expect to see some more stylish plus-size options. Also, we’re seeing some brands going “back to the basics” with minimal designs that let the body speak for itself.
more stylish plus-size options
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With love,
FWO
