Etro Milan Fashion Week FW18
For Autumn 2018 Etro takes a journey to the land of the endless horizon. For this collection, Veronica Etro found inspiration in the long shadows and dusty colourscapes of wide western landscapes wrapped up in the graphic sensibilities of European decorative arts.
Bold patterns are inspired by the intricate art deco tapestries, the enameled jewelry boxes and the colour blocking of Italian postmodern architecture. This collection exists in a cosmic prairie dreamworld unlocked only by Etro’s bohemian wonder.
Etro: Milan FW18
This collection relies largely on print for visual complexity. The patterns on each garment were mapped with mathematical precision and 3D modeled by hand to achieve the exact placement of every geometric ruffle, graphic border and billowing printed scarf. Weightless silk georgette and crêpe are elevated to the architectural via the intensely complicated processes used to create these fluttering, ethereal gowns.
Printed chenille is used on fringed cardigans and wraparound dresses. Knitwear is the highlight of the season with masterfully crafted coats, capes, dresses and ponchos. The weight of suede and faux fur coats is broken up with panels of intarsia knit patterned wool. Chunky knits are flipped inside out on cropped jumpers to expose intricate stitching; jacquard stripes on fluid blanket coats are trimmed with suede fringe.
Patterns range from graphic checkerboard detailing to sweeping mirage-like landscapes. Traditional Etro paisley has been interpreted in multiple ways: ethnic with the chiné technique, bandana effect, manual in black and white or cosmic with stars.
This iconic print is found throughout the collection, alongside wallpaper florals, stripes, fifties-style hearts and arrows and naïve patchworks. Art Deco montages with wide colour surfaces are sourced from 1920s era carpets. Colours are dusty and warm, inspired by prairie landscapes: sage green, chocolate, apricot, burnt orange, peacock, night blue, mustard, tobacco, powdery brick and reddish lobster tones.
Silhouettes are intensely romantic: prim gowns have high collars, fitted bodices and endless ruffled edging. Suede lattice trims collars for a weightier contrast to impossibly light textiles, while wispy tiered dresses bring an element of movement. Dresses and coats are designed with built-in scarves for a voluminously wrapped effect.
Wide-legged leather trousers in chocolate and amber shades are cuffed at the bottom or cut short. Printed cashmere jogging suits are designed with loose trousers and fitted camisole tops and butter yellow pyjamas are bursting with floral prints. A tailored suit in paisley jacquard, alongside western style shirting with cascading printed fringe, add a more masculine note to an otherwise decidedly feminine collection.
Accessories find inspiration in arts and craft traditions. Fringed leather saddlebags with braided straps are decorated with needlepoint designs or patchwork velvet and felt. Colourfully embroidered belts are cinched with brass, silver or faux bone belt buckles. Jewellery is restrained but chunky: turquoise, coral and tiger’s eye stones are found on accessories and drop earrings set in molded silver.
Heavy silver 1920s-era tank bracelets are designed to be piled up and palm-sized heart and arrows brooches are pinned to lapels, mirroring prints found on silk dresses. Soaring heels are stacked on both cropped and knee-high gaucho boots in soft calfskin leather or suede in caramel, taupe and amber. Wrapped around shoulders are blanket-like knitted shawls with wide suede fringe and colourful ponchos.