The Kiko Kostadinov woman by Laura and Deanna Fanning is one of dichotomies. The balance and tipping point of her strength and vulnerability is seductively revealed for Autumn/Winter 2024.
A series of characters mediate their environment with stiffened breeches and jackets, distinguishable by their inverted pleats that flash open in movement; armed and unassailable. Other moments appear fragile; exposing themselves without resistance. Softness counter balances bold and opaque fabrications through incisions and slashes that graphically distort shapes. Lightness succumbs to gravity in iterations of raso satins, sheer paper weight crepes and voile alluding to a desire to seek shelter.
Kiko Kostadinov
Archetypal outdoor materials of coated cottons, velvet and corduroy are sculpted in their utility whilst knitwear graphically swathes the the body in it’s entirety with shield like cascading drape. Anatomy is pinched and tucked in knitted stripe sequences laced with fine paillettes. Aran knits are reimagined, their giant braids travel from shoulder to shoulder forming an armoured silhouette. A seemingly draped shawl collar suit openly frames the chest in place of the evening dress. A relic of our time, denim is introduced in collaboration with Levi’s. An engineered approach to the denim three piece suit emerges, in washed umber tones and faux shearling details.
The Mezulari bag debuts for Autumn/Winter 2024 as a take on the carry all messenger bag. Supple and collapsing in form, executed in fuzzy suede and fine grain leathers. Textured eyelash mulberry silk caps allude to headdresses in relatable tones. Modular jewellery folds and bends as if they were flick knives. Contrarily earrings and necklaces are carved away and twisted in repetition to reveal beads of tigers eye and pearl. Defining seasonal shoe shapes are adorned with faux shearling and suedes.
A variety of desires play out; intact or wounded, tender or aggressive serving as distinct markers of vulnerability within us.
SHOW CREDITS
Collection design and direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Stylist: Imruh Asha at Art Partner
Production: Petit Ami
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Hair: Olivier Schawalder at Art + Commerce
Make-up: Siddhartha Simone at Streeters
Skincare: Starface
Press: A.I. / Gia Kuan Consulting / MATT.
Music direction: Bill Kouligas
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Learn More
@kikokostadinov
kikokostadinov.com
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With love,
FWO
