Bibhu Mohapatra presents his Spring 2027 collection, an ode to Marchesa Luisa Casati — the most bewitching eccentric of the early twentieth century, a woman who treated the world as her canvas and its cultures as her palette.
“I want to be a living work of art,” Casati famously declared, and she built a life to prove it — holding court at the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on Venice’s Grand Canal, where her legendary soirées drew Futurists, poets, and couturiers into her orbit. She sat for more than two hundred portraits, each a deliberate act of self-mythology, and moved with breathtaking ease between the uncanny and the sublime.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Photos: INDIGITAL
For Mohapatra, her spirit is an invitation: to honor the women who understand that dressing is a form of sovereignty, that craft is a form of power, and that a room should never feel quite the same after you leave it.
The collection travels as she did — restless, cultured, unbound by geography. The fluid ikat silks of Odisha meet the intricate needle laces of Spain. The beaded grandeur of Venetian glass meets the architectural drape of couture eveningwear. Across cultures and centuries, the same fearless curiosity that defined the Marchesa drives every choice.
This is homage as celebration — a toast to the women who dare to be extraordinary, rendered in silk, lace, and light. It is a joyful invitation to step forward, to be seen, and to live, as Casati did, like a living work of art.
Textiles for the collection were sourced from Japan, Italy, and France, and include four distinct laces, each rendered in a different color. A capsule of Indigo denim pieces — dresses, trousers, and a trench coat — brings an unexpected, modern counterpoint to the collection’s opulence.
Seven stories of embroidery throughout the collection were created by the artisans of India, a continued testament to Mohapatra’s commitment to Indian craft traditions. The collection also debuts the Luisa print, an original design of vibrant florals rendered with painterly streaks across a canvas, created in tribute to the Marchesa herself.
The color story draws from an Italian rose garden, unfolding in shades of pink, blush, and ivory, deepened with olive greens and accented by a mustard gold.
COLLABORATORS
Jewelry — PMJ Jewels (Hyderabad, India) This season’s collection features a jewelry collaboration with PMJ Jewels of Hyderabad, India, showcasing an exceptional array of craftsmanship across necklaces, chokers, earrings, and bangles — each piece designed in dialogue with the collection’s spirit of ornament and self-expression.
Beauty — Olive Rose Cosmetics Beauty for the collection was created by Olive Tree People, led by artist Luis Casco.
Hair — Rica Haircare and Pomo Styling Hairstyles were created using Rica Haircare products and Pomo Styling tools, led by artist Joseph DiMaggio.
Nails — The Gelbottle Inc. Manicures were created in collaboration with The Gelbottle Inc., led by artist Georgia Cappella.
CREDITS:
Production – The Hinton Group
Styling – Cat Pope and Malcom Hall
Casting – Chad Thompson – Communa-K
Makeup – Luis Casco for Olive Rose
Hair – Joseph DiMaggio for RICA
Manicure – Giorgia Cappella for The GelBottle Inc
Music – Javier Peral
Eyewear- Cazal Eyewear
Hoisery- Calzedonia
Leather Bags- Jovana
Glass Bags- Raiffe
Footwear- Casa Lily by Cynthia Lau
Backstage – Barbara Berman
Set – Frost Productions
Public Relations – Nate Hinton – The Hinton Group
Fine Jewelry- PMJ Jewels
