There is a particular freedom in the way women dress in New York, where the rules of what belongs where never seem especially bind-ing.
A gown can be casual, a casual piece can be eveningwear. Everything is admissible.
For Spring 2027, the woman wearing the clothes matters more than the rules around them. The Proenza Schouler woman begins with the women around us: the instinctive, often unexpected ways they put themselves together and the little expressions of style that reveal something about who they are and who they have been. She is free, sensual and perhaps a little wild.
Proenza Schouler
In this collection, clothes make room for the woman. Cowling and rounded hips bring softness and volume to sharper lines. Seaming traces the female form over dresses, a silhouette laid over another silhouette. Stripes twist and swirl around the body, sunburst pointelle opens into angular flanges at the hip. Merino knits twist too, becoming more sensual, a little undone. The clothes adapt to the body, the body does not adapt to the clothes.
Color, too, is allowed to shift. Strong hues play off one another and sheer layers create new colors. Fluorescent pink cotton velvet absorbs the light. An archival garment-printing technique is applied to denim in white on ecru, creating an almost canvas-like effect.
The sense of freedom extends to craft, and to what craft can mean. A certain wildness appears in the tiger, its motif explored through a silk plissé intarsia as well as a hand-knit intarsia, and tufting with sequins. Alongside the tiger is the rose, the collection’s only flower — as much a political symbol as one of feminism. Actual roses are used to create cyanotypes, which are reproduced and manipulated in different colorways. Pigment printing gives the rose a physical surface.
PS1 Walker, a new evolution of the PS1, is introduced. Pared back to its essential signifiers, PS1 Walker retains its signature latch and belts in a softer, rounder form. The New York woman has things to carry. Her big, practical bag goes with everything because it has to; scaled down to a mini, it goes just as far.
Footwear reveals its construction. The Opanka technique allows the outsole to become part of the upper, while San Crispino hand stitch ing leaves the making of the shoe visible. Softened leather is folded into an abstract rose and stacked cuoio soles are punctuated with grommets and paillette uppers.
The collection is presented in the former Rubin Museum on West 17th Street, itself a site of layered New York histories and once home to Barneys’ women’s store, the first store to carry Proenza Schouler.
Styling Marika-Ella Ames
Casting Julia Lange
Art Direction Lina Kutsovskaya, Be Good Studios
Hair Lead Cyndia Harvey
Makeup Lead Dick Page
Production Bureau Betak
Music Taul Katz And Jon Nellen
Harpist Lang Bian
Press Lucien Pages Communications
Runway Photography Monica Feudi
Video Mediakite
Front Row Vintage PS1 bags sourced on eBay
Nails Jin Soon Choi for JINsoon
Hair L’Oréal Professionnel
Hair Tools ghd hair
Skincare 111SKIN
Water FIJI Water
Undergarments Commando
