FWO Editor-in-Chief Pablo Starr is a screenwriter and author of the novels RNWY: A Space Adventure and Cyberpink (coming to a TV near you). Until recently he served as personal assistant to his rescued stray of 11 years, @OfficialBeautyStarr.
Catherine Osti at Tranoï
Catherine Osti at Tranoï

 

TRANOÏ introduces TRANOÏ PARFUM, in partnership with BARNEYS

O
lfaction — as Marcel Proust surely knew — is one of life’s most mysterious, intimate, and personal explorations, able to achieve depths that can often only be described as “ethereal” … and often touching the spiritual.

For those like myself who are fragrance obsessed — who like to “A/B” geranium essential oils, or try and find out who in the room is wearing Santal 33 by Le Labo (hint: this NYFW, lots of people) — the launch of TRANOÏ New York: Parfums (September 17 – 19 in Chelsea, at The Tunnel) will come as a welcome surprise.

Fornasetti
Fornasetti

TRANOÏ New York: Parfums will present a carefully curated selection of more than 40 niche brands such as Arquiste, Parfumeur, Costume National, Fornasetti Profumi, and Mad et Len, to name a few.

They’re partnering with Barneys New York for an exclusive preview at the Madison Avenue store on Friday, September 16th.

FWO had the exciting opportunity to speak with Armand Hadida (Artistic Director of TRANOÏ and founder of L’Eclaireur — the world’s most exciting fashion “chain”) and David Hadida, CEO of TRANOÏ.

 
Q: The initial launch of TRANOÏ Paris: Parfums was a great success. Why do you think there’s been such a growing demand for “rare” or “niche” fragrances? Do you think people are becoming exposed to some of these fragrances for the first time? I still remember the first time I smelled something by Profumum or Parfumerie National, and suddenly realized most “department store” perfumes smelled the same.

tranoi%cc%88-i-press-image-3DAVID HADIDA: There’s indeed this desire in the market to be unique and stand out in a certain way.

With TRANOÏ New York: Parfums, we want to emphasize uniqueness specifically. Another important factor in launching the Parfums show in NYC is the element of discovery for buyers at the the show.

Retailers were asking us for something different, and lifestyle concept stores and small luxury boutiques have become a growing trend. These niche, upscale products fit perfectly within their boutiques.

We want to emphasize uniqueness specifically.

Q: What do you think some of the world’s most “iconic” fragrances are — and why? Or, perhaps, what are the most iconic for you?

DAVID HADIDA: The age of iconic fragrances — of Chanel No. 5 or even Thierry Mugler Angel — is really too commercial of a concept nowadays.

Today, it’s all about rare, artisanal fragrances. It’s the fastest-growing sector of the perfume industry. The object today is to NOT smell like anyone else.

The object today is to NOT smell like anyone else.

Even the idea of having a “signature fragrance” is outdated. Fragrance aficionados today love the process of discovery, and most have a fragrance “wardrobe” to show for it.

Q: I had the opportunity to interview Ensar Oud once: although I’m not certain he’s still in the agarwood business. He sent me some vials of actual oud oil, which were quite fascinating. I’m seeing oud in more and more fragrances. Do you think it’s still a growing trend, or has it passed its prime?

tranoi%cc%88-i-press-image-2DAVID HADIDA: Oud is such a quintessential component in the perfume business that it is almost impossible to un-think it. I wouldn’t say it has passed its prime but there are other and perhaps more interesting ingredients that are defining today’s perfume landscape such as the study of molecules [such as Molecule 01] and lactones.

The study of molecules and lactones are defining today’s perfume landscape.

Q: What are some things you’re most excited about for the upcoming event, September 17 – 19?

DAVID HADIDA: We’re very excited to introduce the Parfums show as a whole, yet to continue the idea of an intimate and high-end boutique trade show where we encourage dialogue and exchange. We brought this strong selection committee with industry experts on board who will discuss the future of fragrance and the importance to incorporate fine fragrances in fashion and luxury lifestyle boutiques.

We will discuss the future of fragrance.

From a fashion point of view, we’re excited to welcome premium brands such as LaQuan Smith, LF Markey, and Som Les Dues, and to have returning designers such as Catherine Osti, Gold Philosophy, or House of Lafayette.

Q: Tell us more about TRANOÏ International Fashion Tradeshows in general. What’s its scope and mission, and what do you foresee for the future?

DAVID HADIDA: With TRANOÏ we want to be more than just an international tradeshow. We offer a strict selection of remarkable designers each season and this makes the show what it is today: a valuable source of truly different, international creativity, and outstanding, high quality talent.

Instead of a bazaar-style presentation of countless denim and streetwear labels, we finely edit the roster, selecting niche brands. Quality is important, price is mostly not an issue for the attending buyers.

We offer a strict selection of remarkable designers each season.

In addition to the New York show twice a year, we show four times a year in Paris with Men’s, Women’s, Pre-Collections & Parfums. We’ve expanded to 3 different locations in Paris in the meantime (La Bourse, Le Carrousel du Louvre, and Cité de La Mode et Du Design as the newest venue) and as we’re growing in New York, we’re also forecasting to move into a bigger venue.

Q: Obviously Armand is founder of L’Eclaireur, one of the world’s greatest stores / small chains. I keep most of my things in L’Eclaireur boxes in my closet (they’re so beautiful to store things in). Do you think many of the designers you carry, names completely unfamiliar to most people who consider themselves “fashionistas” — Cherevichkiotvichk, Isaac Sellam, Guidi, A Diciannoveventitre, for example — are destined for the mainstream? Do they need to be?

ARMAND HADIDA: Glad to hear you’ve been keeping our L’Eclaireur boxes so closely! As for the question: does every brand need to be mainstream? Definitely not. Will some of these brands become breakout stars? Absolutely.

Q: Do you think online retailers like Luckyscent.com and FarFetch.com are helping to drive awareness of luxury items that were once unknown to the average shopper? (People who don’t live in Paris or New York, for example.)

ARMAND HADIDA: Online retailers that showcase artisanal brands are certainly making them more accessible. That said, it is incredibly important for emerging brands to be picked up by brick-and-mortar specialty retailers, too. Nothing can fully replace the in-store consumer experience — when you can try on a garment or test how a scent works with your skin’s own chemistry. Both channels are important.

Nothing can fully replace the in-store consumer experience.

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