Vivi Zubedi Fall 2018: New York Fashion Week
Represented by The Riviere Agency
Outside of the runway’s doors where Vivi Zubedi’s FW18 show was about to take place, I found myself zeroed in on the monitors above the crowd of guests.
A cycle of videos played over and over showing Vivi Zubedi with the female entrepreneurs of South Kalimantan and working with them throughout the process of creating their fabrics. It was a touching introduction to the show I was about to see, but I certainly didn’t expect the collection that followed.
Vivi Zubedi: NYFW FW18
With high drama, the lights dimmed and music punched out of the darkness. We were off and any bland connotation of the work modest was thrown to the wayside. True, Zubedi’s collection is modest fashion, but it remains so with attitude and ferocity.
It’s urban grit mixed with the femininity of Victorian England, the attitude of street wear but accented with lace ties at the throat and a certain delicacy in the tailoring. The Kalimantan influence of the fabric and the elegant choice of construction mixed together in one stunning and vaguely threatening collection. The women in these clothes are not to be trifled with.
Some standouts are in the excellent variety of the headwear; from velvet hijabs to beautiful veils reminiscent of grieving Italian grandmothers, and the embellished caps have me thinking I might take a bedazzler to my baseball hats.
The color story remained rather dark, with navy blues and black and gold tones, but the main focus lay in mixed textures. This is where Zubedi shines and her collection gains the kind of depth that makes her clothing great. In any case, her cause is a noble one and it’s a pleasure to think about how far some of the fabrics have come: from the hands of South Kalimantan women to Zubedi’s design and to the runway—completely transformed and a bridge between it all. This, at the end of our many fashion weeks, is the power of the industry. Having Zubedi remind us of the many stops in the journey to creating a collection made her show a thoughtful and considerate one, one that made me think of her collection outside of the runway I was viewing it on.
About Vivi Zubedi
Vivi Zubedi is a fashion designer from Jakarta, Indonesia. Before working in fashion, Vivi graduated from Universitas Negeri Sumatra Utara (University of North Sumatera) with a degree in accounting. She soon realized that her passion was in the fashion industry, and started to learn how to sew and make clothing patterns from her tailor.
In 2011, Vivi launched her first label using her own name “Vivi Zubedi”. Vivi first presented her collection at Indonesia Fashion Week in 2014 and received an incredible response from the fashion society in Indonesia. After that, Vivi continued to present her collection at Jakarta Fashion Week and launched in the U.S market through Indonesia Fashion Gallery in New York. Through her label, Vivi showcases Abaya collections to promote the Muslim women’s wear as a well-known entity in the fashion industry. With Vivi Zubedi’s brand,
Abaya has become more renowned not only in Indonesia, but also in other parts of the world like London, South Africa, Germany, Dubai, and Qatar.
In September 2017, Vivi Zubedi participated in her first fashion show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) with IMG. Her collection became a spotlight, not only to the media, but also to the international fashion industry for her “fresh” designs, colors, and the meaningful theme “Makkah, Madinah, Jannah”.
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