Power, Rebellion, and Digital Escape: Inside Fine Chaos’ AW25 Show at Copenhagen Fashion Week

FINE CHAOS is a Copenhagen-based fashion brand that thrives on rebellion, subversion, and storytelling.

Known for its raw, dystopian aesthetics and immersive runway presentations, the brand merges high-end craftsmanship with underground influences. With a distinct focus on societal critique, digital escapism, and deconstructed silhouettes, FINE CHAOS pushes the boundaries of alternative fashion, creating collections that feel more like movements than mere clothing lines.

Last week, they returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25 with an electrifying, immersive spectacle that blurred the lines between fashion, storytelling, and social commentary. Their latest collection, “Ataraxis,” explored a dystopian world where control, digitalization, and survival intersect—a sharp contrast to the term’s meaning of tranquility. The runway, set in an arena-like environment, positioned the ‘outlaws’ against the authoritarian forces, with the band Kind Mod Kind elevated in a nest-like throne, symbolizing power and scarcity. From deconstructed outerworld garments to futuristic aesthetics, the show was a study in contrasts, reflecting both digital escapism and raw, tangible rebellion. With bold graphics referencing real-world issues, the teasing of the untraditional upcoming collaboration with a gaming-brand FINE CHAOS once again proved that fashion can be a statement, a movement, and a mirror to the world we live in.

@jamescochrane

INTERVIEW:

Q: “Ataraxia” carries a sense of deep tranquility, yet Fine Chaos is known for its dystopian and chaotic narratives. How does this collection reconcile those contrasts?

The term ‘Ataraxis’ has two meanings in the story.

The first is an ironic use of the term – it aims to portray the forced silence of the people living under the regime of FINE CHAOS in it. FINE CHAOS, in the storytelling, is an authoritarian megacorporation that has seized control of society.

The other definition is the more literal one – finding peace and comfort in all the noise, discomfort and challenges that each individual faces.

Both definitions relate extremely well to the issues the world faces at this given moment as well – hopefully giving the title some meaning for the viewer / wearer.

Q: The AW25 collection script presents an intense, immersive world-building experience. How does this storytelling translate into the garments and runway presentation?

The runway presentation was meant to present this ‘arena’-ish environment, where ‘outlaws’ of the story surrounded the ‘FINE CHAOS’ in the middle. In the middle, the band Kind mod Kind are standing in an exaggerated bird’s nest, making them godly but also portraying their wealth and power by being surrounded by nature.

In the story, natural resources are scarce, so for them to be standing in a ‘crown’ made of branches, it shows wealth. And their voices guided the show. The garments very much present which category each individual is a part of. The arthurian outfits are worn by individuals working for FINE CHAOS, the futuristic bright and almost ironically vibrant are a part of digital world named ‘Netherworld’ (title of the collection two seasons ago) and the destroyed and totally deconstructed outfits are worn by people living in the Outerworld. The makeup in the show further adds to that storytelling, with some models having deep wounds, others sharp lines near the eyes and lastly some looking ‘digital’.

Q: Fine Chaos often blends digital aesthetics with physical craftsmanship. How does ‘Ataraxis’ push the boundaries of fashion technology and traditional tailoring?

I don’t know if we bend or push the boundaries – I think we very much portray how we in modern society try to digitalise everything – from what we wear, to how we look and how we act.

Furthermore, the balance between analog and physical is very interesting to explore, as it often seems like things that can’t live in harmony, and definitely don’t collaborate. Exploring that dualism is quite fascinating and something we enjoy very much.

Q: The themes of control, simulation, and a post-apocalyptic dystopia are strong in this collection. How do you see these ideas reflecting contemporary society?

You see it in the bold and vocal graphics like the ‘ILLEGAL’ print, relating to the ongoing and very inhumane deportation of immigrants in the world. In the story, it relates to how FINE CHAOS exile people due to them not supporting the government (Which is FINE CHAOS).

We always try to connect the collection to the everyday, to make it relatable and therefore hopefully sparking a conversation.

Q: From a visual and conceptual standpoint, what were the biggest inspirations behind Ataraxis? Were there specific films, books, or philosophies that influenced the collection?

To be brutally honest, the everyday news and the people around the brand has been the biggest inspiration to the style and the references in the collection. I like to design from the actual circumstances.

Yet, you will find references from movies and games from the 00’s, such as Silent Hill referenced in our black hoodie with exaggerated shoulders etc.

Q: The runway itself is a performance. What emotions or reactions did you hope to evoke in the audience at CPHFW?

A feel of togetherness and unity through a relatable portrayal of the world surrounding us.

Q: Fine Chaos thrives on subversion and unpredictability. Can you hint at how Ataraxis sets the stage for what’s next?

It would not be fun to state what’s next, would it? Haha. An ‘Ataraxis’ cleans the mind, so anything can be next? 😉

Q: Anything else going on that you would like to share? Events? Collaborations?

We have a big collaboration coming up with the danish gaming company ‘Wallhack’ which is going to be super exciting! Then the Proper collaboration is going to be super fun as well as other collaborations with brands and stores from Asia. 2025 is looking to be an amazing year!

Q: What makes Asia an interesting region for you? Was the move to Asia planned or did it happen spontaneously?

I think our choice of aesthetic, play on construction and details very much fits the playfulness of the fashion communities in Asia, old and new. I watch a lot of anime, and the use of colors in Animes relates very much to how we use colors in our collections.

@jamescochrane

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Hannah Longman
Hannah Longman
From fashion school in NYC to the front row, Hannah works to promote fashion and lifestyle as the communications liaison of Fashion Week Online®, responsible for timely communication of press releases and must-see photo sets.

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