Pablo Starr is publisher of FWO and RNWY, and author of forthcoming RNWY: A Novel. Read about Pablo in The Huffington Post. (More info.)

Jourden | Resort 2018

Jourden is one of our favorite designers, which is why we couldn’t resist bring you a peek at Anais Jourden Mak‘s Resort 2018 collection.

There certainly is a lot happening in the fashion week continuum at the moment. Between Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture having wrapped, NYFW: Men’s happening now, and Miami Swim on the horizon, it’s almost hard to keep up with everything.

But as always, Jourden presents a collection worth a look.

 
Jourden | Resort 2018

 

One of Mak’s hallmarks as a designer is creating looks with a sneaky subversive element. Her gift is in mixing up contradictions that work; in giving femininity a cheeky, rebellious spirit without restoring to streetwear or punk clichés. If a reborn Emily Dickinson decided to express her rebellion in fashion rather than in words, Jourden might be her brand of choice: especially in this latest collection.

If a reborn Emily Dickinson decided to express her rebellion in fashion

The cuts are conservative, but the colors and patterns are anything but. “Restraint” is the word that comes to mind: but it’s not the blanket restraint of the timid. Rather, it’s the disciplined restraint of a master.

Ultimately, Mak’s vision succeeds not because of facile “bad attitude” (ATTN: most streetwear brands today) or high concept, but because her looks are beautiful. So whereas someone like Vivienne Westwood might express rebellion in a series of awkward, defiant pairings, Mak’s rebellion is crafted from floral juxtapositions and one-of-a-kind silhouettes. Her skill with color and balance is so strong, the conversation is necessarily elevated.

it’s the disciplined restraint of a master

The collection shows more control than her Spring 2017 collection, and more focus than her Fall 2017 collection.

But Resort is about taking it easy and relaxing. After all, even an iconoclast has to kick up her proverbial heels, sometimes.

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jourden.co
Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

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