Pablo Starr is publisher of FWO and RNWY, and author of forthcoming RNWY: A Novel. Read about Pablo in The Huffington Post. (More info.)

Issey Miyake Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

For Spring 2018, Yoshiyuki Miyamae continued his exploration of experimental fabrics and silhouettes, taking inspiration from Iceland and geologic time.

Unique processes included Steam Stretch, a technique by which creases are woven into fabric using heat reactive thread, which shrinks when steam is applied; and Baked Stretch, a technique where a special glue is printed on the fabric and baked with heat to create pleats.

 
Issey Miyake Paris Fashion Week SS18

 

More studied methods included “Dorozome” — a mud-dyeing method from Amami Oshima, a tropical island in the south of Japan — and “CUBE,” where a textile created by piecing together squares. (It creates a square when the garment is laid flat, and then changes into a three-dimensional form when worn.)

Experimentation and exotic processes are all well and good (rather like when a restaurant injects as many adjectives as possible before every ingredient: a butter may indeed be from a single farm in Normandy, but how does it taste?), but the only thing that matters is the end result, either in aesthetics or tactical experience (or both).

Experimentation and exotic processes are all well and good

Standing at the back of the large auditorium, a tactile guess was never in the cards, but in terms of looks, a lot of interesting things were happening. (Even if a troubled band — with perfectly troubled hair — was a bit of a distraction.) Our favorite look was the rust-brown tunic held closed by a single, big button, over a dress made of stripes that seemed to reveal a scene beyond: a sort of reverse camouflage.

With Miyake, the artistry is always apparent, and indeed, these garments were more like modern art pieces than items of clothing. And yes, a great many — big, flowing concept garments in dramatic silhouettes, and tie-dyed looking numbers — seemed wearable. And these that were, would guarantee the wearer were noticed as someone daring, worldly, and unafraid to take chances.

Shoes were by United Nude.

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With love,

FWO

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