Pablo Starr is publisher of FWO and RNWY, and author of forthcoming RNWY: A Novel. Read about Pablo in The Huffington Post. (More info.)

Dumitrascu Paris Fashion Week SS18

Represented by Ritual Projects.

As one of the New York Times “5 New Designers To Watch,” expectations of Andra Dumitrascu are bound to be expectedly high.

After studies with Raf Simons, Bernhard Willhelm, and Veronique Branquinho, Berlin-based Dumitrascu launched its debut collection in 2016.

For “Kebaby,” his Spring 2018 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Dumitrascu decided to take inspiration from “rave, youth, a transit generation.” So it’s not so surprising he would use a metro station as a backdrop for the collection.

 
Dumitrascu: Paris Fashion Week SS18

 

Decidedly unisex, with a sporty element, some of the high-tech fabrics gave the collection a futuristic appeal, while some of the oddball pattern combinations and asymmetrical fringes suggested thrift store finds or dumpster rescues.

A few of the more chic ensembles has an almost superhero vibe: perhaps for that personality teetering just on the edge of a psychotic break.

Conceived at night in some of the shadier neighborhoods of Paris, it’s the kind of collection you could conceive of wearing while eating ramen at an all-night restaurant, somewhere between coming down and going up, possibly while listening to Bowie’s “Speed of Life.”

No matter how you parse it, the collection was astute, imaginative, and full of an authentic connection to the wilder side of things.

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Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

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