Pablo Starr is publisher of FWO and RNWY, and author of forthcoming RNWY: A Novel. Read about Pablo in The Huffington Post. (More info.)

CHANEL Métiers d’Art

Karl Lagerfeld’s shows can be counted on to be as memorable as any of his collections: whether his models are blasting off in a spaceship, strolling through an uber-stylish airport in shield sunglasses, or strutting beneath a waterfall in clear PVC rain boots.

CHANEL’s Métiers d’Art collection, unveiled in Hamburg, was no exception, taking place in the Elbphilharmonie, the futuristic edifice conceived by architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron.

 
CHANEL Métiers d’Art

 

Some have speculated that the Hamburg show will be Lagerfeld’s last before retirement (a retirement that has been predicted and refuted on several occasions). But based on some of his Karlisms alone, it seems just as likely the designer won’t be stopping anytime soon. Especially with so many themes yet to explore at Paris Fashion Week. (Virtual reality, Karl?)

As usual, the least interesting part of the show was the list of celebrities in attendance. The real story, d’habitude, was the unmistakable CHANEL silhouette as seen through Lagerfeld’s eyes: the confident yet surprising color combinations and fabric juxtapositions: hard with soft, shiny with matte, a Godard-ian masculin et féminin at play, ever skewed toward the impossibly glamorous, with bold buttons and just-right exaggerations.

The real story, was the unmistakable CHANEL silhouette as seen through Lagerfeld’s eyes

In keeping with the naval theme, implied by the selection of venue — a Hamburg port — the collection explored pea coats, cable-knit sweaters, and anchor emblems, resulting in a more casual sensibility.

Our favorite look was Look 38, below, which somehow managed to take disco glam to the docks and make it work:

chanel look 38

It was precisely the sort of thing that only CHANEL, and Karl Lagerfeld, could pull off. And it leaves us wondering what we can expect to see in Paris this February / March.

#CHANELinHamburg
#CHANELMetiersdArt

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With love,

FWO

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