Pablo Starr is publisher of FWO and RNWY, and author of forthcoming RNWY: A Novel. (More info.)

(Main photo: Miu Miu by Vogue)

Fashion Week Online Fall 2017 Recognitions

Danger, Will Robinson! We admit that — for better or worse — we are an opinionated publication. Passionate about politics and — much more importantly, we think — human beings. In terms of being absolutely fair this season, it’s possible we didn’t always fare as well as we’d like: from our reaction to a rather distasteful PR push from Taoray Wang (which we did still manage to call “one of the best of the season”), to our rather underwhelmed reaction to Dior: a collection that mainly paled in the context of last season.

Then there are other personal animosities that have to be dealt with: our dislike of celebrities, scene kids, and bloggers who come to shows to show off their own outfits (you know the ones, who spend most of the show looking at their phone in the front row, as 6 months of backbreaking work strolls past, mainly unnoticed), dismissive PR or high-handed door people, etc.

(More difficult is our bias against streetwear and evening wear, which is a purely personal preference.)

But we do know one thing: fashion week is about fashion. So in awarding recognitions, we forget all of that: the animus or favoritism; predisposition to the nice and the vulnerable; the color added by the soundtrack; accordance or discordance with the politics of the collection (most of which were expressly humanistic anyway), to focus on one thing:

The beauty and artistry of the clothing on display.

Oh, and one more thing. This is important. Our recognitions are not a definitive judgement.

Recognition literally means “to think of again,” and that’s mainly what we’re doing here. If you missed everything, we think these are worth a look. And if you saw everything, we think these are worth seeing again.

Mainly, they’re here to spark discussion.

Recognitions are mainly here to spark discussion.

After all, fashion deserves it.

We hope you enjoy our takes. And be sure to watch these videos here.

 

FWO RECOGNITIONS FALL ’17
SUPERLATIVE COLLECTIONS
A collection worth watching and rewatching, indicating often superb designs. Distinctive looks are precisely executed, using superlative techniques. At the furthest end of the spectrum, a collection showcasing a groundbreaking vision; possibly a collection and / or a show even of historical note.

Chanel

EXCEPTIONAL COLLECTIONS
A collection worth special attention, indicating excellent craftsmanship and / or a particular and unique vision, remarkably styled. Or, a truly exceptional collection of any kind.

Anna Sui
Balmain
Coach
Comme des Garçons
Isabel Marant
Manish Arora
Michael Kors
Miu Miu
Song Jung Wan
Thom Browne
Victoria Beckham

OUTSTANDING COLLECTIONS
A collection that stands out for the season, among many collections from many talented designers, showcasing looks presented to a very high standard.

Acne Studios
Akris
Altuzarra
Anniesa Hasibaun
Anrealage
Brock Collection
Calvin Luo
Chloe
Concept Korea (NYFW Showcase)
Delpozo
Desigual
Dion Lee
DROMe
Fashion Hong Kong (NYFW Showcase)
Francesca Liberatore
Georgine
Giambattista Valli
Issey Miyake
John Galliano
Lacoste
Leonard Paris
Marcel Ostertag
Namilia
Nehera
Nina Ricci
Rahul Mishra
Rick Owens
Sacai Paris
Sies Marjan
Taoray Wang
Telfar
Undercover
Valentino
Vivienne Hu
Wanda Nylon
Y Project

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Learn More

Watch Recognitions Here

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With love,

FWO

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