APHID Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week
Represented by The Lobby London.
Spring Summer 2018 is a continuation of the Aphid graphic handwriting the brand is known for whilst embracing structure, innovative construction and conceptual cuts. This combined with signature dark colourways are punctuated with saturated bright accents.
For SS18 fabrication is kept deliberately and unexpectedly light. Deconstructed and frayed textured fabrics and hemlines provide surface detail whilst complimented the gathered textiles seen through asymmetric conceptual tailoring with a unique, soft structure. The technical pattern cutting propels the brand forward, generating beautiful one off pieces in the form of asymmetric wraps, drapes and unlikely suspensions.
APHID Paris Fashion Week SS18
Bull and Starling’s references extend from Harley Weir’s ‘Home’ photo collection to the sculpture of Robert Morris, the processes exhibited in Brancusi’s studio and the textures of Franco Mazzucchelli’s interior installations. Clear examination of the theme of deconstruction and reformation subject us to an experience of newness in what has come before then taking these ideologies apart and reshaping.
APHID is a British designer brand helmed by Bernadette Bull and Carl Starling, launched in 2016. Having collaborated together for almost a decade managing a successful private label business, they executed a long time vision of launching their own line of contemporary, conceptual womenswear inspired by a female archetype they identified with, that they couldn’t reach with their private label designs.
APHID is rooted in the natural world – named after strictly female insect colonies, who reproduce perfect replicas of themselves without the need for males. APHID create clothes that represent strength, power and confidence via beautifully sculpted, strong silhouettes, premium and unexpected fabrics and the use of specially developed techniques. With this in mind and as a starting point for the brand, they wanted to create clothes that embody this persona, to be worn with confidence yet versatile enough to be worn anywhere. APHID is founded on the premise of exploring form and framing the contrast between an intriguing penchant for darkness and a person’s individual light.
Bernadette Bull graduated from Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh with a degree in Textiles and Fashion Design and Carl Starling graduated in fashion design from Arts University Bournemouth, winning a sponsorship from Swarovski for Graduate Fashion Week. Both have worked in numerous independent British brands and companies before joining forces in 2009.