Gabriela is a non-native New Yorker who travels the world to understand why people wear what they wear and how. She is an independent fashion reporter, trend chaser, and self-proclaimed beatnik.

Agnès B. Paris Fashion Week FW18

Agnès B. typically tries to offer up something exciting and new at the start to her collections.

Last season for women’s, she agreed to bring student designers onboard to present a few looks as a debut. This time, for Men’s she went ahead and brought street dance and urbanism right to the runway.

Agnès B.: Paris FW18

There’s something to be said about the urbanism that has pervaded menswear overall and how it has attempted to drag the elements of our favorite cities into their apparel. Agnès B. men’s perfectly describes that and illustrates the variety of version*/impressions/likes of men in cosmopolitan cities. Alongside the element of urbanism in importance comes fit. Fit is becoming absolutely central to menswear today, as important, possibly, as what silhouettes are worn. In this season’s collection, the designer acknowledges this very much so and designed some excellent narrow knit looks such as jogging pants and close-cut jackets.

Fit is becoming absolutely central to menswear today

The collection offered a variety of themes:

  • aerodynamic-like design that is modern and innovative in appearance but comfortable and fashionable all the same
  • ’70s grit and the attractive sleaziness of the era
  • darker shades for the quietly stylish man not begging for attention
  • evolving menswear in adapting new styles not traditionally embraced by men (see knee pants)
  • keeping with the best of men’s vis a vis the traditional suit but bringing it into not just today, but tomorrow

Having presented such a variety of styles, it leads me to believe that this expansive expression of men’s may be aimed at a) capturing a wide audience or, more romantically, b) an urbanite that describes himself to have a variety of styles and different dimensions to his personality.

The Men:

  • ’70s guy
  • Not-So Closet rocker: the casualized, grounded rocker reintegrating into a traditional life with hints of former self coming out, whether through piercings or leather statement pieces. He’s part Beatle, part (……)
  • City guy/Urbanite

All these varieties shows the designer’s capacity to capture range and her determination to provide for the evolving city slicker as he learns more about other cultures and develops understanding on things beyond his life.

There was a big effort to redo the traditional suit for a more urban guy, using jersey for added comfort using rib knits giving room to move and breathe.

Other sweet details from the show include the statement coat as a signature standout piece, a styling tip many of the attendees adhered to on this rainy Parisian Sunday morning. In addition, the designer worked a lot with accessories, though exclusively over solid pieces so as not to draw too much attention from the tailoring.

Pale color combos are particularly presented for those gentlemen that like to dress well and feel good but not necessarily broadcast it. Those that prefer the details and integrity of design over flashy colors and prints. There’s a reconsideration of those less desirable colors into brilliantly designed pieces that may be seemingly unattractive on the surface but cut, quality and shape remain.

10/10 for Agnes B. Homme.

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With love,

FWO